The Fat of the Land

Fat has gotten a bad rap.


First we were told that eating fat would make us fatter. Fat to fat, and that's that. Then we were told to stay well away from all animal fats, including butter which was strictly forbidden. Use margarine and vegetable shortening instead the experts insisted.

Now all that has changed. It's the trans fats and partially hydrogenated vegetable oils that are really bad for our health, so throw out all the shortening!

Yet our bodies need to consume fat for our metabolisms to function properly. We cannot absorb certain crucial nutrients without fat. Moreover, replacing the typical fat-filled ground chuck with extra lean ground meat, whether chicken, turkey, beef or bison often results in dry, tasteless lumps that we only pretend taste like the real thing. So what are we supposed to do?

Here's my personal solution: Eat fat joyfully and thoughtfully, in moderation.

Or to paraphrase Michael Pollan, "Eat real fats. Not too much. Mostly olive oil."

Today's recipe is a prime example of how using good fat can lead to very good things: creamy, mouth satisfying and tummy warming comfort food. By incorporating olive oil - the healthiest of fats - into very lean ground meat (I use buffalo,) we end up with rich juicy meatballs in succulent, guilt-free sauce.

Another flavorful trick is adding a tiny amount of bacon grease to the heated pan; I'm talking about a teaspoon or two, not enough to effect anyone's cholesterol, but just enough to mingle the teasing bacon aroma with the fragrance of garlic and rosemary. The sauce is pulled together with flour rather than cream, and when served over whole grain pasta or brown rice, everything adds up to wholesome and delicious.

Recipe: Creamy Italian Meatballs

Blend together in food processor:

1 Tbs. toasted cumin seed
2 tsp. oregano
1 tsp. fennel seeds
1/2 c. bread crumbs (one large slice)

Add and process until onion is finely chopped:
1/4 large onion
1 egg
Add: Freshly cracked pepper
1/2 tsp. salt (see note)
1 lb. ground meat (if using extra lean meat, add 2 Tbs. olive oil)

Separate and peel cloves from
1 large head of garlic see note)
Heat in large, deep skillet or Dutch oven:
3 Tbs. olive oil and2 tsp. bacon grease

Toss garlic cloves and two sprigs of rosemary in oil until garlic is barely browned, then remove from skillet and set aside. Reduce heat to medium high.

Scoop meatballs into hot skillet, turning gently as they brown.
(Do not wash food processor yet.)
When meatballs are well browned, remove from heat.

In food processor combine:
1 cup soy, almond or coconut milk (unsweetened)
1/2 c. fresh basil (2 tsp. dry)
2 tsp. oregano
1/2 tsp. salt
2 Tbs. flour
Using a turkey baster, add some oil from skillet to processor.
Combine thoroughly, then pour mixture over meatballs in skillet along with
1 c. broth or other liquid

Return garlic cloves and rosemary to meatballs.
Bake in 350 degree oven for 30 minutes.

Remove rosemary sprigs and stir sauce gently.>Serve over noodles or rice, accompanied by a fresh fruit salad.

Notes:

> Toss whole cumin seeds in a small dry skillet over medium high heat until they release their fragrance and begin to brown. They will begin to snap and pop when they are ready to blend with the rest of the ingredients.

> One school of thought holds that adding salt to ground meat mixtures causes too much juice to be released during the browning, so I often wait and add salt only to the sauce.

> This dish can be improved nutritionally and made more authentically Italian by tossing a double handful of chopped fresh spinach into the sauce just before baking - but only if you enjoy spinach. My husband doesn't, so spinach isn't included in the main recipe. When our kids were small, they called the spinach version "Green Meat." You can see why from this photo of the leftovers I heated for lunch. They made fun of the color, but they gobbled it up, especially when served over noodles.

copyright Starr Luteri 2009